If you’re interested in skin-care (check!), you’ve likely heard of collagen. How to take care of the collagen you have and how to boost your skin’s natural collagen production are buzzy topics, and tons of brands claim their key ingredients (vegan collagen, peptides, you name it) can get the job done.
Collagen is a structural protein that can be found all over the body, including in our skin. It is known for giving our faces and bodies firmness and elasticity, and most famously, it’s known for fading as we age. That’s why there are now thousands of products claiming to be collagen boosters on the market.
Fading collagen is, of course, natural! Our bodies produce less and less collagen as the decades pass, and its quality drops off, too. This drop-off can start as early as our mid-twenties, says Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City. (Even our eyeballs can eventually lose some collagen throughout the years.) This inevitably causes our skin to lose its elasticity, resulting in sagging in areas like the jawline and wrinkles. And even though countless beauty products are marketed as means of boosting collagen, the truth is that caring for collagen and promoting its growth can be tricky.
For starters, collagen isn’t something that can just be fed back into the skin: As an ingredient, “collagen does not help us when applied topically, because the molecules that make up collagen are too large to effectively penetrate the skin barrier,” says Dr. Engelman. “If you apply a ‘collagen cream,’ you may get some benefits from the other ingredients, but the collagen itself will really just sit on top of the dermis. In topical skincare, collagen [as an ingredient] is really just used as a marketing tactic.”
The good news: there are a select group of skin care ingredients that can boost collagen and help maintain your existing collagen’s health at home.
- Dendy Engelman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
- Courtney Rubin, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Pasadena, California.
- Sherry Ingraham, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Sugar Land, Texas.
- Geeta Yadav, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Toronto.
- Kelly Dobos is a cosmetic chemist.
- Ava Shamban, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in Beverly Hills.
- What Skin Care Ingredients Boost Collagen?
- Retinol
- Peptides
- Sunscreen
- Can Eating Certain Foods Boost Collagen in the Skin?
- Can Collagen Supplements or Drinkable Collagen Boost Collagen in the Skin?
- Do Any At-Home Devices Boost Collagen?
- Can Making Lifestyle Changes Boost Collagen?
What Skin Care Ingredients Boost Collagen?
According to our experts, retinol is the clear front-runner in the collagen-boosting race. This form of vitamin A is something of a superhero in the skin-care universe: it’s been proven to increase cell turnover, reduce the appearance of wrinkles, and treat acne, and more. Stimulating collagen production is among its many powers, making it a top choice for pros.
“Retinol and retinoids in general are some of the most extensively studied and science backed skincare ingredients,” says Courtney Rubin, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Pasadena, California. Studies have demonstrated that “they support collagen production, and thus smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” says Dr. Rubin, and that they can even prevent future collagen loss. One study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, for example, of 72 participants ranging in age from 18 to 80+, found that a 1% retinol cream could stimulate collagen synthesis. (The Ordinary 1% Retinol in Squalane, Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Treatment, and SkinMedica Age Defense Retinol Complex 1.0 all contain 1% retinol.)
That said, retinol can be a commitment to add to your routine. Building up application slowly over the course of a few weeks can help the skin become acclimated without drying out or developing redness, but studies also say retinol’s benefits can be seen applying it just three times a week regularly. Retinoids (a stronger relative of retinol) are prescription-only, and can be effective for boosting collagen if your dermatologist deems you a candidate based on skin sensitivity.
The good news: there’s no shortage of over-the-counter skin-care products boasting powerful doses of retinol. Dr. Engelman recommends Elizabeth Arden Retinol + HPR Ceramide Rapid Skin-Renewing Water Cream because it includes two types of retinol as well as peptides (another collagen-boosting ingredient), and she likes Dr. Diamond METACINE InstaFacial Emulsion as a hydrating nighttime treatment with retinoids that’s ideal for both retinol beginners and experienced users. We’re also fans of IOPE Retinol Expert 0.1%, a 2023 Best of Beauty Award-winner, and long-time Allure favorite Shani Darden Skincare Retinol Reform Treatment Serum, which contains both retinol and alpha hydroxy acids for gentle yet effective exfoliation.
Ah, peptides. They’ve had top-billing on product bottles for years, and for good reason. There are many types of peptides — which, generally speaking, are chains made up of two or more amino acids — derived from different sources, like the human body, animals, plants, and labs. Peptides are one of the gentler skin-care ingredients geared towards stimulating collagen production.
“While they are not as extensively studied as retinoids, they are a great option for those with sensitive skin who may not be able to reach for something like retinol,” says Dr. Rubin. “Many of the peptides used in skincare are synthetic, and linked to fatty acids in order to increase their skin permeability and effectiveness. Some examples of these are palmitoyl tetrapeptide-1 or palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, which are some of the most extensively studied peptides commonly found in skincare.” According to a study published in the journal Pharmaceuticals (Basel), palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-5 are two peptides that can help stimulate collagen production, while palmitoyl tetrapeptide-1 is also believed to help, says Dr. Rubin.
Paula’s Choice Resist Weightless Advanced Repairing Toner contains palmitoyl tetrapeptide-1, while The Inkey List Collagen Booster Firming Peptide Serum and The Ordinary Multi-Peptide + HA Serum contain both palmitoyl tetrapeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. Revision Skincare Revox 7 contains palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (and has been recommended to Allure by New York City-based board-certified dermatologist Hadley King, MD), while Dr. Hartman has called out Olay Wrinkle Collection Serum as a powerful drugstore option.
Your daily sunscreen, beach-bag favorite, or body sunscreen won’t necessarily kick your collagen production into high gear, but UV exposure has been proven to damage the skin’s proteins, including collagen, and using sun protection can help maintain your healthy, existing supply of collagen.
“The most important action to prevent the breakdown of collagen is to always apply sunscreen,” says Sherry Ingraham, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Sugar Land, Texas. Dr. Rubin and Dr. Shamban also expressed that applying SPF daily is key for supporting collagen production.
That said, sunscreen only works if applied correctly, which means reapplying every two hours and using enough: a shot glass-worth on your body (collagen affects your skin tip to toes!) and enough to cover your pointer and middle fingers per the “two-finger” rule on your face and neck. (It’s a pretty simple technique; you squeeze a line of sunscreen down your pointer finger, another down your middle finger, and apply to your face.) We’re big fans of Best of Beauty Award-winning options like the lightweight and under-$20 Innisfree Daily UV Defense Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 36, and KraveBeauty Beet the Sun SPF 40 PA+++ (both are chemical sunscreens). For mineral sunscreen, we love Dr. Few Skincare Tinted Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30 and Dr. Ingraham recommends SkinCeuticals Physical Fusion UV Defense SPF 50.
Can Eating Certain Foods Boost Collagen in the Skin?
Most definitely — all of our experts pegged a nourishing diet as a vital way of supporting collagen maintenance.
“You can support existing collagen and new production by eating a healthy diet rich in vitamins, minerals, and proteins, the latter of which contains amino acids, the building blocks of protein — remember, collagen is also a protein,” says Geeta Yadav, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Toronto. “Bone broth is a great source of all of these nutrients. I'd recommend making it yourself over buying it, ideally over several days — the end product should be thick and gelatinous when chilled or at room temperature, which is an indication that it's rich in collagen.”
Board-certified dermatologist Ava Shamban, MD, recommends seeking out antioxidant rich foods — blueberries, strawberries, spinach, nuts — while Dr. Yadav and Kelly Dobos, a cosmetic chemist, tout vitamin C as an important nutrient to consume rather than just apply topically.
“Collagen synthesis is a complex process and ingested vitamin C is an important factor in innate collagen production,” explains Dobos. “The best way to ensure you’re getting enough vitamin C is to eat a balanced diet.” Dr. Yadav points to dark leafy greens and citrus fruits as two vitamin-C rich foods to add to your grocery list.
Can Collagen Supplements or Drinkable Collagen Boost Collagen in the Skin?
The short answer: You’re way better off eating a big salad than stocking up on collagen supplements or drinkable collagen.
“Despite popular belief that collagen supplements can help strengthen our skin, we have little data to truly support this," Joshua Zeichner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic & clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City previously told Allure. "Collagen is a large molecule that is digested by our intestines into smaller pieces when taken by mouth, so when we ingest powders or supplements, our skin is not seeing the full collagen molecule, but rather protein fragments or individual amino acids." And there’s no reason to believe that drinking collagen or taking collagen supplements will get more collagen to your face: "[Collagen] doesn't know where to go in your body," Keri Gans a registered dietician and nutritionist in New York City, previously told Allure. "It's not like that."
Do Any At-Home Devices Boost Collagen?
There are thousands of skin-care devices on the market, but there’s one category our experts (and clinical studies) have given a ringing endorsement when it comes to boosting collagen.
“Light therapy, specifically a device that uses both red and infrared light, is the easiest way to promote collagen production at home,” says Dr. Yadav, pointing to a study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. That doesn’t mean every at-home device uses a wavelength of red or infrared light that’s been shown to promote collagen production in studies — an especially frustrating fact considering what big splurges at-home devices can be — so it’s best to follow expert recommendations here. Dr. Yadav like Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare’s LED mask, as it provides “infrared and two forms of red light, as well as amber and blue light for comprehensive treatment of signs of aging, redness, and acne.” Allure Best of Beauty-winner TheraFace Pro also uses wavelengths that have been shown in studies to impart benefits to the skin. And Dr. Engelman recommends the Solawave 4-in-1 Red Light Therapy Skincare Wand, which combines red light therapy, galvanic current, massage and warmth in one tiny bar — and it’s another Allure editor go-to.
Can Making Lifestyle Changes Boost Collagen?
If you’ve been looking for an excuse to snag another Stanley cup or flake on plans in favor of crashing early, you can now do so comfortably in the name of plump skin.
“Staying well-hydrated by drinking plenty of water throughout the day is important for skin health, as dehydration can lead to dryness, wrinkles, and reduced elasticity,” says Dr. Shamban, who also recommends getting a good night’s rest to keep your skin collagen-rich.
“Collagen production peaks during sleep, aiding in cell repair and maintaining a healthy skin barrier,” she explains. Dr. Ingraham also calls out smoking and excessive drinking as two habits to consider quelling.
“Avoiding smoking and excessive alcohol consumption can help protect against collagen loss and damage,” she says. “When combined with exercise, you can also further help minimize collagen loss as you age.”
To read more about collagen:
- The Truth About Drinking Collagen for Better Skin
- Why Applying Collagen Topically Won't Fight Fine Lines
- Even Your Eyeballs Lose Collagen as You Age
Now watch Madison Beer's 10 Minute Beauty Routine for a Glowy Blush Look:
