Walking across Tokyo’s Shibuya crossing, one of the world’s largest pedestrian intersections, I was in awe—but not of the crosswalk (I live in New York City; I’ve seen enough crosswalks to last a lifetime). Instead, my eyes were trained on the hordes of the city’s residents carrying umbrellas and wearing gloves… on one of the sunniest days of the summer. Their vast and incredibly strategic sun-protection routines were so impressive I almost couldn’t look away.
“Sun care is an important and widely accepted part of Japanese culture,” says Shoko Mori, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City and member of the Japanese Medical Society of America, a group made up of Japanese health care providers working in the US.
In many parts of Asia, wearing sunscreen is just one part of a sun protection routine says David Kim, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City who travels to South Korea twice a year. “Many take it to the next level by wearing gloves, giant hats, and SPF patches on their cheeks to further prevent sun damage.”
UPF—which stands for ultraviolet protection factor—clothing is widely recommended by dermatologists across the globe for its ability to shield both types of UV light (UVA and UVB) in the form of tightly woven short- and long-sleeve shirts, pants, hats, etc. Bandage-like SPF patches—made with UV-blocking materials like zinc oxide silicone—can block light where they’ve been applied, like the cheeks, foreheads, or backs of hands. While I personally didn’t see anyone wearing them in Japan, Dr. Kim says they’re growing in popularity in Asia. In the US, there are a couple of patch brands entering the market, like Sun Patch and Mediheal, but I’ve yet to try them.
And all of the extra credit works, according to the data: While skin cancer is the most common form of cancer in the US among both men and women, in Japan, it’s the 13th and 14th highest among women and men, respectively. But there are also more aesthetic reasons for covering up: In Japan, there is “a widespread understanding that more sun exposure over time leads to more wrinkles and sun spots,” says Dr. Mori.
As an American who has spent most of her life actively soaking up the sun on the sandy beaches of Florida (as opposed to hiding from it), I was shocked by the stark contrast between the sun-care routines I witnessed during my week in Japan (I was there with Shiseido to learn all about its new Future Solution LX line) and my own.
Those differences—using an umbrella on hot and rainy days, wearing UPF clothing, and actively reapplying sunscreen in different formats versus a single, early-morning slathering from the neck up—honestly made me feel a little embarrassed. As a beauty editor who is incredibly diligent about wearing sunscreen every day (even when indoors!) and who writes about the dangers of the sun’s rays as a full-time job, I should have a more extensive routine—especially considering I had not one, but two, skin cancer scares over the summer.
A few months ago, I had a pre-cancerous spot removed from my face. (During Skin Cancer Awareness Month—gotta love the irony.) The dot, which was under my nose, on the left side of my upper lip, was virtually undetectable. In fact, the only reason it was spotted during a routine acne appointment was because it looked like a very subtle, dried-up pimple the size of a pinprick.
My dermatologist noticed the teeny-tiny mark and asked how fresh my breakout was. Confused, I told her it wasn’t a zit at all, so she immediately grabbed her dermatoscope to take a closer look—and then quickly confirmed it was a pre-cancerous sore and needed to be removed ASAP. The next thing I knew, a cold blast of nitrogen was being shot directly into the spot, which would “freeze off” the pre-cancer, and over the next few weeks, the spot would dry up and peel off. And that’s exactly what it did. But then, a month later, a similar-looking spot popped up again, this time along my hairline. My dermatologist confirmed it was another pre-cancerous spot.
Hence, why the impressive lengths Tokyo residents take to shield themselves from direct sunlight were particularly appealing.
What is not always appealing—in the United States, at least—is slathering oneself in sunscreen. In Japan, along with Europe and other parts of Asia, the UV filters used in chemical sunscreen formulas are much more cosmetically-elegant—meaning they smooth on more easily and blend in better— than in the US. That “cosmetically elegant” quality is important because, as Allure has long reported, the best sunscreen is the one you’ll actually want to wear.
"It's not that [Asia] has something unique that allows them to create better sunscreens," Toronto-based cosmetic chemist Stephen Ko previously told Allure. "They just have access to more sunscreen ingredients to work with."
In the US, sunscreen is classified as a drug, and because of that, its formulations (and the chemicals in them) must go through long, meticulous drug approval processes with the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA). These processes typically result in ingredient limitations, which is why "there hasn't been a new [chemical or mineral] approved for use in sunscreens in the US since 1999," says Ko.
In Japan, “sunscreens are treated as cosmetics,” says Dr. Mori. “Wearing sunscreen daily in the form of moisturizer, BB cream, or standalone, is very much a typical part of a daily skin-care routine for most women.” That explains why I saw so many different variations of sunscreen (lotions, serums, facial mists, sticks, and lip balms) while I was shopping in Japan.
I grew particularly fond of the recently updated Shiseido Future Solution LX Day SPF 30 for its rich (but not thick) texture, incredible hydrating (and protecting) abilities, and the gorgeous sheen it gives skin post-application. (Its formula base, which includes antioxidant-rich green tea and vitamin C, collagen-building cherry blossom leaf extract, healing enmei herb— known for its health benefits in Japan—and skingenecell 1P, which is a proprietary amino acid that helps strengthen the skin barrier.) It also blends in easily and without cast, which, again, really does fit the “cosmetically elegant” label.
Along with Shiseido’s new day cream, I also stocked up on a few more sunscreen staples while I was in Japan. I can’t tell you how many tubes of sunscreen I bought—no seriously, I have no idea. I blacked out at one point during a two-hour excursion to discount store Don Quijote and bought approximately 62,535 tubes of chemical sunscreen, like the Best of Beauty-winning Shiseido Urban Environment Vita-Clear Sunscreen SPF 42 and the Bioré UV Aqua Rich Sunscreen SPF 50.
I’m also loving the silky, lightweight Anessa Perfect UV Skincare Milk SPF50+, gel-based Nivea UV Deep Protect & Care Gel SPF 50+ PA++++, and brightening Rohto Mentholatum Skin Aqua Super Moisture UV Mist SPF 50+ PA++++, which, sadly, aren’t readily available in the US.
Since my trip, I’ve been extra generous with my sunscreen application and have also incorporated a hat into my daily commute (I really like the Prequel UPV hat right now). Next step… possibly gloves? “Wearing UPF gloves when driving would be a great habit to develop,” says Dr. Kim. “Our hands constantly get sun damaged while driving, and this is an easy, quick habit to adopt.”
Although I don’t actively drive nor have a car, I do pay close attention to fashion trends. And with the fair amount of opera-length gloves I’ve seen on recent red carpets, thanks to my new post-Japan mindset, they’re looking more inspirational than aspirational when it comes to sun protection.
More on sun protection:
- How Much Sunscreen Do You Really Need to Apply Every Day?
- Have We Been Overdoing It On the Sunscreen?
- Is Your Sunscreen Expired? Here’s How to Tell
Now, learn how to hydrate:
