Shani Darden has magic fingers. Spend an hour or so in the esthetician’s Los Angeles studio and you’ll leave with glowing skin — stars including Shay Mitchell, Kelly Rowland, and Laura Harrier can all attest. If you can’t snag an appointment at the Shani Darden studio (sighs on the east coast), you can get the same results of the glow-inducing facials in her skin-care collection.
The Hydration Peptide Cream is my favorite from the collection, but after hearing my fellow Allure editors rave about the Shani Darden Triple Acid Signature Peel (it even won a Best of Beauty Award), I had a feeling it would replace the cream as my new Shani Darden go-to.
I’ve only had one chemical peel in my entire life and it was enough to scare me into never doing one again. Don’t get me wrong, the results were great and my skin was beaming but the three to five days of peeling were ugly, to say the least. Since that experience a few years ago, I’ve been sticking to potent acid-based products that still give me effective exfoliation without excessive peeling, which is why I was eager to put Shani Darden's signature peel to the test.
Behind the formula
After looking at the ingredients list, cosmetic chemist Amanda Lam was impressed that this peel has “no excessive use of 'sprinkle' ingredients for marketing purposes.” By sprinkle she means ingredients that aren’t serving any real purpose. The “triple acid” in the name refers to latic, mandelic, and glycolic acids which are the main stars of the peel — though they aren't the only acids in the formula. “The use of multiple acids helps target different skin concerns,” says Lam. "Alpha hydroxy acids work more on the skin's surface to exfoliate dead skin cells while beta hydroxy acids penetrate a little deeper into the skin to exfoliate.”
Board-certified dermatologist Mona Gohara, MD is a fan of the two-step system that the peel follows and says the ingredients can be beneficial to anyone who wants to even out their skin tone, minimize fine lines, and reduce sun spots. Dr. Gohara does warn against using the peel if you have any inflammation on your skin or have sensitive skin as the combination of acids can be too harsh.
How to apply the Shani Darden Triple Acid Signature Peel
At first glance, the Shani Darden Peel seems more involved than your normal exfoliating toner or face mask. This peel is a bit more similar to what you might get at a dermatologist or esthetician’s office. The two-step peel kit comes with a triple acid exfoliation solution that comes in a small grey pod, a Kaolin Clay Neutralizing Mask, and an application brush.
I had to read the instructions before diving into this process during my nighttime skin-care routine. Here’s how it goes: first you peel back the gray pod with the triple acid solution (FYI, there’s a lot of product in there, more than you’ll need for one use). I applied a thin layer of the gel-textured peeling solution all over my face using the brush in the kit. I let the first step sit for two minutes, per the instructions, before applying the neutralizing clay mask right on top of the peeling solution. Though it feels counterintuitive, don’t wash off the gel before applying the clay mask.
The instructions prepare you for some tingling (which is totally normal) once you apply the mask on top of the peeling solution. In my experience, the tingling wasn't too bad (on a scale of one to “get this off my face ASAP,” I'd give it a 2. There's an initial tingle when I apply the clay mask on top of the gel which Lam says could be due to neutralization of the acids. “Since the pH of the two products is likely drastically different there may be a chemical reaction that is giving you the stinging sensation,” says Lam.
I left the mask to sit for about five minutes before rinsing it off with cool water. Immediately after washing off the mask, I apply a hydrating toner (I've been reaching for the Goodal Rice Milk Toner) followed by the Shani Darden Hydration Peptide Cream to nourish my skin and support my skin barrier after applying potent acids.
My results after using the Shani Darden Triple Acid Signature Peel
My skin felt and looked smoother and brighter right after using the mask. My pores and texture around my cheeks were still evident but definitely less noticeable. The best part? my skin didn't feel dry, tight, or irritated like it sometimes can after using potent acids.
While the immediate results were impressive, it wasn't until the next morning that I was really blown away. After a night of beauty sleep, my skin tone looked more even and smoother — it also felt and looked hydrated and supple.
I'm excited to see how my skin improves as I use the triple peel once a week over time. For the $125 price tag, I'd say this peel is worth it — the kit comes with eight pods of the peeling solution and a 1.7-ounce tube of the clay mask which is a good amount of product for your buck. This is a great treatment to use before a big event to give your skin the same level of refinement and glow as a chemical peel — minus the actual peeling.
The Shani Darden Triple Acid Signature Peel is $125 and available now at sephora.com.
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